Paradise Valley, AZ

Inspection of the system, I found it was controlled by a boiler. Only controls available on the thermostat is in cooling. System is currently heating, which is controlled by the property management. Blower motor and capacitor are within tolerance range. However, the cabinet of the system is very dirty as well as the door and surrounding area inside the closet. Eric wanted an Estimate sent over so he can forward it to the property owner.

Today I showed up for george flight club maintenance one a twenty year old package gas unit. Here are my findings, i found that upon initial inspection of capacitors, all capacitors were testing out of tolerance while underload. But with removing capacitors from the syrem and testing each capacitor independently, for microfarids, we found that all capacitors were within tolerance of manufacturer specification. I recorded a 37° temperature difference while in heating mode. And I recorded a 30° temperature split, while in cooling mode. No further thoughts or noted at this time.

Today I showed up to do a george flight club maintenance on a package.Heat pump. Here are my finding, i found that all components were operating within manufacturer specification. I recorded a thirty five degree temperature difference in heating mode. I also recorded a twenty degree temperature difference in cooling, no further thoughts or notes at this time.

Today I performed an annual george flight club on a package.Heat pump. Here are my findings, i found that all components were operating within manufacturer specification. I recorded a 37° temperature Split in heating mode. And I recorded a 20° temperature split and cooling mode. No further thoughts are noted at this time.

Call installed what switch and customer wanted to quote for 5 inch filter rack

Customer explained that when he turns on it takes a minute for the heat to start blowing. Explain to the customer that the unit sits outside and is going to take a minute to warm up because it is cooler at night, but heat runs a normal operation at this time. Also found the leak coming from Schrader on the suction line.replaces schrader

Both furnace and ac run in normal operation at this time

There was little to no airflow getting to the bedrooms on the right side of the house. I’m modified the existing vent inside the wall with new scoops and blocking off unused areas of the duct. Improve the airflow to the bedrooms, however, there is still lacking airflow to the area due to it being the farthest room from the system. Homeowner will reach back out after trying it out for a week and see if there’s any other improvements we need to make.

Exhaust has good slope, but noticed that there is no wet switch. Added wet switch to an estimate and the estimate price is already including the discount

The air handler that sits in the bedroom. I found some air leaks and sealed it up with some aluminum tape. I also found that the thermostat was given a call for fan to always run and that could possibly be the result to why it’s always warm in there because it’s blowing out the heat that is trapped in the ductwork that’s up in the ceiling. Turned the fan to auto. Both sets of units running normal operation. Both sets of units running normal operation

Board was not sending power to the blower motor but not spinning. After replacing blower motor, ac runs in normal operation at this time

Upon arrival, customer had thermostat set to 77 and it was 68 in the bedroom. Recommend that the customer tries to keep the thermostat within a 5° difference all the time because of the type of HVAC equipment it is. I recommend that the customer can either keep the thermostat at 68 during the night and then put it at 77 early in the morning or keep it at a warmer temperature at night and a cooler temperature during the day. East side of the house is cooler throughout the day because the sun hits the east side first so that unit has more of a runtime than the bedroom unit. The best option would to be to keep the thermostat within a 5° difference for the bedroom.

Fixed chewed Up wires for 24 V and found that the contactor was being pushed in but voltage was not transferring to the other side. AC runs normal operation at this time.

Upon inspection of the master bedroom unit, I found the unit to be operating correctly. I did perform an XOI vision call with Bob from daikin and ran through a couple diagnostic test to make sure the system was operating correctly. All vents were checked in the bedroom to ensure proper airflow. The indoor temperature was 68° and the unit was getting a 20° temperature split. However, on the east side of the house, I found that unit to be running as a 4 ton even though it’s a 5 ton system I put a new program on the outdoor unit and the system is now reading as a 5 ton system. CFM rating on this unit went from 1300 to 1800 after change was made.

Today I arrived to do a maintenance on two train Package units. Here are my findings. For the unit on the east side of the house, I found that the first stage compressor was not turning on. I determine that the control board is bad Not sending signal to the compressor contactor to allow it to turn on. When the compressors were running, I found that they were both having high amp, draws Pulling more power than What they are rated for. This is a sign of old age and wear and tear. I also found an excessive amount of debris and latex paint overspray on the evaporator coil. Besides these issues, everything else on the system looked good. System was cooling with a 20° temperature split upon departure. For the west side unit I found the system was only getting a 9° temperature split upon further investigation and checking the pressures. The compressors were running in thermal overload not turning on. I isolated the two compressors, and found the smaller compressor on the system is bad. Th

Upon arrival unit was turned off at service panel. After turning thermostat off the compressor and fan was still running. Contactor was seized up and needed to be replaced after replacing contactor temperature split was 20. Unit runs in normal operation at this time

I first pumped down the system then moved the line set to the desired location. I then brazed the line set with nitrogen, pressure tested with 250 psi then pull the vacuum down to 200 µm. Then refrigerant was released back into the system. System was ran for around 20 minutes to ensure optimal performance. Move lineset

Today I showed up to inspect a dyken split heat pump for no cool. Here are my findings, i found that the outdoor unit was not operating, i found that the control board was issuing a 03 code corresponding to locked rotor. After parameter checks of compressor and compressor windings, we installed a hard start kit to aid the compressor. After installation of hard start kit system operating properly at this time, with a thirty two degree temperature split. Temperature split is high because of high ambient temperature in the house. Due to a no cool. No further thoughts or notes at this time.

For today’s visit, I did a check on the blower motor on the unit over the bedroom. I found that the blower motor was pulling correct amps in the capacitor was within manufacturer specifications. The duct work connected to the return that is making the most noise is only about 5 feet from the unit whereas the other unit is about 15 feet. The motor is aftermarket, but there is no issues with the motor at this time. Homeowner is not worried about the noise just more concerned There wasn’t an issue.

I performed an AC check up And here are my findings. All amp draws were reading within manufacturer specifications. Capacitors were also reading within tolerance range. Evaporator coil was clean and so is the blower wheel. Also condenser coils were cleaned. However, I was only getting a 7° temperature split. I checked the charge of the refrigerant and found the system was low on refrigerant. I performed a visual inspection with soapy bubbles to find a leak, but there was No oil residue was present anywhere on the unit. It could possibly be coming from the evaporator coil that did show signs of rust but passed the soapy bubble test. Homeowner stated Parker and Sons was just out And said they needed a new compressor. Due to another company working on the unit I just charge the system for now with 3 pounds of refrigerant as a baseline. Will have to perform a quality check in the future. Upon departure system was cooling properly with a 20° temperature split.

I inspected the vents that weren’t producing airflow. Found that the two vents next to the thermostat were allowing so much airflow out it was not getting to the rest of events. I blocked off 3/4 of each of those vents into the bedroom. I also change the filters because they were extremely dirty With construction debris. I also inspected that the indoor coil is dirty and will need to be cleaned. Once construction is done.

Upon inspection I found the system was working and temperature inside was at 75 degrees. Checked out the unit and things didn’t add up correctly. Got technical support line and we came up with probable main outdoor board failure. Ordering new board and need to come back to replace. Replace outdoor control board

Clear primary drain line of debris

I installed a Daikin FTXS18LVJU/RXS18LVJU ductless mini-split system for cooling. The process involved mounting the indoor and outdoor units, running refrigerant lines, and installing a condensate pump. I charged the system with R-410A, programmed the wireless remote, and performed a full system check to ensure optimal operation.

I performed a cooling repair on a Carrier 24ABB3 air conditioner. The compressor wasn't starting due to a failed start capacitor. I replaced it with a new 88-108 MFD capacitor and also installed a Supco SPP6 hard start kit to reduce startup strain on the compressor.